Strong “stone chinas” are earthenwares reinforced with ingredients such as pounded iron slag and flint, and were indeed stronger than the simple earthenwares which preceded them. These earlier pieces could only be fired to a temperature that was high enough to harden the basic material, but not to fuse it together to make it nonporous. Ironstone china could be fired to a higher temperature, but one that was still not high enough to completely eliminate the tiny air spaces that make a ceramic body porous. Like all glazed earthenwares, ironstone was given a firing at a slightly lower temperature to fuse the glaze onto the surface and so make the clay body waterproof. An allover glaze renders earthenware practicable for household items, especially those which need to be cleaned in water. But any chink in this glassy armor breaks its impervious seal, and

Antique Collection

Exposes the porous body beneath, which absorbs not only water but grease and other stains, all of which can

Travel beneath the surface and weaken the body as a whole. Glazes are also used decoratively, usually to add color. Initially, they were sprinkled on by hand in dust form (which then liquified during firing to run over the body), and later, the clay bodies were dipped into the glaze. There are many different types of glaze which give different finishes. Salt glazes used from medieval times on household pottery, to clear lead glazes—that tend to absorb bright colors—and the opaque tin glazes that formed a white background for decoration on maiolica, faience, and Delft. Tin glazes tend to be brittle, and splinter and chip easily at the edges.

Ironstone was often decorated with fanciful Oriental patterns, which were printed in outline under the glaze in blue and then the colors, such as the reds, which could not withstand firing temperatures, were painted in by hand over the glaze. These are consequently more vulnerable: overglaze colors on any ceramics present a broader palette of color, but are more likely to be worn away with use and washing. Gold decoration is the most delicate of all.

If you want to use your glazed earthenware, keep it for special occasions, treat it with great care, and alternate the pieces you use to ensure even wear over the whole of the service. If any item is chipped or cracked, the glaze is crazed, or it has been previously restored, do not use it at all. Do not immerse it in water, and never put any glazed earthenware in a dishwasher. It is important to establish whether the decoration is underglaze or overglaze, so that you can judge how resistant the decoration is likely to be. If in doubt, seek an expert opinion.

If plates are displayed in a cabinet, make sure the furniture is stable, that there is a rack to prevent the plates from sliding forward, and leave a gap between each piece. Keep restored pieces out of direct sunlight or in complete darkness, as both situations hasten the yellowing of the resin. Stack no more than four plates at a time, since more than that could put breaking- point pressure on the lowest plate, and interleave the plates with a protective cloth or paper. To clean damaged, restored, or decorative pieces, lightly dust them with a soft brush, or for more persistent marks, use a cotton swab (bud) dampened with saliva.

Decorative pieces were generally produced in large quantities, so you may find replacement items in better condition. Keep your eye open at markets and in antique shops for odd pieces which may fill gaps in your own service.

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